Siti Muinah
The Return of the "It Bag"
Fendi’s legendary "Baguette"—the accessory that effectively birthed the modern concept of the "it bag"—has returned to the center of the fashion universe. In a sweeping new campaign released this week, the Italian luxury house has unveiled a star-studded visual narrative that bridges the gap between old-world glamour and contemporary pop culture. Featuring a diverse cast of Hollywood A-listers, fashion models, and K-pop icons, the campaign is more than a product showcase; it is a declaration of the Baguette’s enduring cultural relevance.
The campaign features a high-profile lineup including Sarah Jessica Parker, Jessica Alba, Emma D’Arcy, Sophie Thatcher, Iris Law, and Tecla Insolia, alongside Fendi ambassadors Bang Chan, Song Yuqi, Ren Meguro, and Mina. Captured by photographer Bibi Borthwick and set to the rhythmic, moody soundtrack of Addison Rae’s "Fame is a Gun," the imagery captures a sense of intimate, individualized style. Each subject was invited to choose their own Baguette and interpret the accessory through their personal lens, resulting in a series of portraits that explore themes of ownership, history, and attitude.
A Legacy Reimagined: The Maria Grazia Chiuri Era
This campaign serves as a landmark moment for the brand, marking the first major initiative under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri. Her appointment as chief creative officer follows her tenure at Dior and a return to the house where her illustrious career began. Chiuri is no stranger to the Baguette; she was instrumental in its initial development during her earlier years at Fendi, making her return to the design studio a poetic "full circle" moment for both the designer and the brand.
"The Baguette marked an era," Chiuri noted in a recent interview with WWD. "Many think it’s because it was trending, but in truth, it’s a very peculiar project because it stems from the ability to bring together ateliers with different backgrounds—leather goods and clothing." By taking the piece back to its origins, Chiuri aims to re-edit the silhouette, stripping away the excess to reveal the structural integrity that made it a global phenomenon in the late 1990s.
Chronology: From Parisian Inspiration to Global Dominance
To understand the significance of this revival, one must look at the timeline of the Baguette’s ascent:
- 1997: Silvia Venturini Fendi creates the Baguette. Inspired by the nonchalant way French women carried their bread under their arms, the bag featured a short strap and a slim, rectangular body. It was an instant departure from the oversized, practical handbags of the era.
- Late 1990s – Early 2000s: The bag becomes a cultural touchstone. Its appearance on Sex and the City, specifically in the hands of Carrie Bradshaw, elevates the accessory from a luxury item to a status symbol, cementing the "it bag" terminology in fashion journalism.
- 2010s: Fendi periodically releases new iterations of the bag, maintaining its presence in the market while experimenting with varied materials, sizes, and hardware.
- 2025: Maria Grazia Chiuri departs Dior after a decade-long tenure, signaling a shift in the global luxury landscape.
- 2026: Chiuri assumes the role of Chief Creative Officer at Fendi, prioritizing the "re-editing" of the brand’s archives.
- 2027: The Fall/Winter 2027-27 collection premieres, featuring the refined Baguette as the centerpiece of the brand’s new identity.
The Psychology of the Bag: "It’s Not a Bag, It’s a Baguette"
The campaign’s slogans—"it’s mine," "it’s my attitude," "it’s controlled chaos," "it’s family," "it’s history," and the iconic "it’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette"—are deliberate. They acknowledge the emotional attachment that customers have developed toward the piece over the last three decades. By referencing the iconic line from Sex and the City, Fendi is leaning into its own lore, acknowledging that the Baguette is no longer just an object of utility, but a piece of pop-culture heritage.
The choice of cast highlights a deliberate strategy to capture different demographics. Sarah Jessica Parker represents the historic, nostalgic connection to the bag’s golden age. Meanwhile, the inclusion of K-pop superstars like Bang Chan (Stray Kids), Song Yuqi, and Mina (Twice), as well as rising acting talents like Emma D’Arcy and Sophie Thatcher, ensures that the brand remains relevant to Gen Z and Alpha consumers who are increasingly driving the luxury market.
Supporting Data: The Power of Re-editions
The decision to focus on the Baguette is a data-backed move in an increasingly volatile luxury market. According to recent industry reports, "heritage" products—those that maintain a consistent design language over decades—consistently outperform "seasonal" trends in resale value and consumer sentiment.
By grounding the Fall/Winter 2027-27 collection in the original Baguette silhouette, Fendi is capitalizing on the "Quiet Luxury" and "Vintage Core" movements. Consumers are currently showing a preference for items that possess longevity. The Baguette, with its deep historical roots and recognizable form, fits perfectly into the wardrobe of the modern, intentional shopper who values investment pieces over disposable fashion.
Official Responses and Strategic Implications
The industry reaction to Chiuri’s appointment and the subsequent campaign has been overwhelmingly positive. Analysts suggest that by returning to the "origins" of the brand, Fendi is successfully distancing itself from the trend-chasing cycles that have plagued other houses.
"Chiuri’s strength lies in her ability to marry artisanal craftsmanship with a deep understanding of what makes a product iconic," says one luxury market consultant. "By involving the atelier in the re-editing process, she is ensuring that the quality remains as high as the brand equity."
The implications for Fendi are significant. The brand is looking to secure its position as a pillar of Italian luxury, moving away from the loud, logo-heavy aesthetic of previous years toward a more nuanced, archival-led identity. The digital-first rollout of the campaign—premiering simultaneously with the runway show—demonstrates a commitment to a cohesive, global brand experience that reaches consumers wherever they are, whether that is on a runway in Milan or a social media feed in Seoul or New York.
Looking Forward: What This Means for Fendi
As the 2027 season progresses, the Baguette will serve as the anchor for Fendi’s broader commercial strategy. If the initial reception is any indication, the gamble on nostalgia, coupled with a refreshed creative vision, is set to pay dividends.
The campaign has successfully created a "moment" that feels both inclusive and exclusive. By inviting such a diverse array of stars to define what the Baguette means to them, Fendi has transformed a static object into a canvas for individual expression. Whether it is Emma D’Arcy embodying a sense of modern, gender-fluid elegance, or Sarah Jessica Parker returning to the accessory that helped define her character’s identity, the Baguette is proving that its story is far from over.
In an era where fashion is often criticized for being ephemeral, Fendi is betting on the idea that some things are worth keeping, re-editing, and falling in love with all over again. The Baguette is back, and if the current campaign is any indication, it is poised to reclaim its throne as the ultimate accessory for the modern era.
Campaign Spotlight: Cast Highlights
- Sarah Jessica Parker: The face of the legacy, bridging the 90s cultural peak with modern sophistication.
- Bang Chan: Bringing the massive global influence of K-pop to the Italian house.
- Emma D’Arcy: Representing the new guard of Hollywood, aligning the brand with artistic, high-concept storytelling.
- Sophie Thatcher: A nod to the cult-following of shows like Yellowjackets, cementing the brand’s "cool factor."
- Jessica Alba: Representing the intersection of business and style, reflecting the bag’s status as a staple for the professional woman.
- Ren Meguro: A powerhouse of the J-pop and acting world, signaling Fendi’s continued expansion into the Japanese market.
- Iris Law: The quintessential fashion-forward face, representing the influence of legacy models on the new generation.
- Tecla Insolia: Bringing an authentic, artistic Italian perspective to the global lineup.
- Mina: Adding further depth to the brand’s strong connection with the K-pop industry.
- Song Yuqi: A vibrant, influential voice that resonates with a massive global youth audience.
Dwi Wanna
Jia Lissa
